Victoria, British Columbia, makes for an unforgettable winter getaway for families seeking a touch of Europe. This small, elegant city on Vancouver Island serves up big holiday atmosphere. Think twinkling lights, salt air, festooned hotels, and cozy restaurants. Best of all the city’s British heritage is everywhere. With Canada’s recently reopened border, Victoria is driveable from the Northwest corner of the U.S.
We took a last-minute trip to Victoria for New Year’s Eve 2020 (that’s right, THAT 2020) with our 11 and 14-year-old kids. Knowing what we know now — and how 2020 would shake out — our last-pre COVID trip was precious indeed.
A Ferry Ride Across the Salish Sea
From the continental United States, you arrive in Victoria by ferry or seaplane. Kids and teens alike will be fascinated cruising across genuine open ocean, with its choppy waters, on a massive ship. You can walk on as a pedestrian and also have the option to drive your car on board.
Looking back at the U.S., you see the Olympic Mountains towering over the ocean, and if you’re lucky, they might be frosted with snowy peaks. This is the 25-mile crossing of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the outlet to the Pacific Ocean and the maritime border between Canada and the United States.
The 90-minute ferry ride and impressive arrival into the inner harbor is an adventure in itself for anyone visiting Victoria. It’s a large and stunning harbor (spelled “harbour,” once you cross the border!). Rain or shine, Victoria’s waterfront sparkles. This is the capital city of the province of British Columbia and is reminiscent of European cities with its neo-baroque Parliament buildings and stately chateau-style Fairmont Empress Hotel holding court at the center of the inner harbour.
Sleepless in Victoria
We spent three nights at the Delta Hotels Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort, looking across the water to the city. During the holidays, the waterfront turns into a dazzling display of gold and glitter. Views are majestic from nearly every room.
KidTripster Tip: I also inadvertently discovered this hotel is a sneaky secret viewing spot for the New Year’s fireworks. The four of us stood alone on the hotel’s balcony at midnight, watching the city celebrate. No one else joined us in the blustery weather.
Walking downtown was easy across the Johnson Street bridge from the hotel’s central location. Our son brought his skateboard and found the Vic West Skatepark down the road. Our daughter made use of the hotel’s indoor atrium pool — also with views. And, we splurged on the Club Lounge add-on, giving the pre-teens a place to go for snacks and some independence and giving the parents a spot to drink coffee and beer and read the paper with a view. It was money well spent in winter.
City sidewalks, busy sidewalks . . . holiday style
Downtown Victoria oozes charm and good views, and all kinds of decked-out streets. For New Year’s Eve dinner, we dined at a local seafood restaurant on the sea wall while a Pacific storm raged outside. It was cozy and memorable. When the weather broke to brilliant sun on New Year’s Day, we took in a sparkling city by foot and stumbled onto lively New Year’s Day brunch musicians at a classic Italian restaurant, Pagliacci’s.
Winter gardens shine for the whole family
Later, on New Year’s Day, we visited the internationally renowned Butchart Gardens for the lit-up formal winter garden. The 55-acre estate puts on a massive winter nighttime display with holiday lights, water features, music, food, and a classic ice skating rink. You bet your bottom dollar we skated!
KidTripster Tip: arrive before sunset to enjoy all the daytime views, as well.
Stay Classy, Victoria
We parents couldn’t resist the opportunity for a scenic nightcap at the historic Fairmont Empress Hotel. A châteauesque-style hotel built in 1908, The Empress sweeps you away with its grandeur. At night, the hotel’s Q Bar transforms into a moody, violet-hued homage to Queen Victoria, the city’s namesake. Perfect for a classic cocktail.
Take a tour during the day with the kids and teens — in December, an ornate Christmas tree fills the lobby, and there are holiday decorations and events across the grounds. Or, if you’re feeling extra decadent, book one of the Empress’s infamous high teas.
On rainy days we go to museums
On the only rainy day, we made our way to the highly regarded Royal BC Museum for the ancient human and natural history of Canada’s Western Coast. The museum tells an impressive story of indigenous people and native animals. From elk to orcas to North America’s second-oldest Chinatown (next to San Francisco) this museum is substantial and has been serving the story of B.C. since 1886.
Other adventures
There’s a ton to do here any time of the year. Consider booking a private seaplane tour from Victoria Harbour over greater Victoria’s mountains, coves, and ocean as an added family adventure.
Related: A Family Itinerary for Victoria, B.C.
Another adventure is a whale watching tour with boats operating out of Victoria Harbour year-round. In addition to whales, all kinds of marine wildlife live in Victoria’s waters, including sea lions, seals, porpoises, and birds. Our family saw a deer swimming across the harbour during our ferry ride home.
Getting to Victoria, B.C.
Remember: Victoria is an international city. Visitors from the U.S. and must have a passport and inspection upon arrival. Check updated mandates for vaccinations and entry requirements.
Non-stop commercial flights operate between Portland or Seattle and Victoria.
If you drive or arrive via foot, schedule your ferry ride carefully and pre-book. Tourism Victoria has a great transportation round-up of the many options and combinations of transport from wherever you are. Some lines are temporarily suspended due to the pandemic, so check options closely. The two most popular ferries are:
All photos courtesy of author Amanda Calnan Vowels.
