Driving The Ring of Kerry

by Marcia Breen
Photo: Discover Ireland

DAY TWO

Just four miles from Killarney,  you’ll find Torc Waterfall.  This 80-foot waterfall is a very short walk up a paved path from the car park.  Is it beautiful?  Yes, but it’s no Multnomah Falls and, being from Oregon, I was less than impressed.  Besides, its beauty pales in comparison to yesterday’s sites, so I’d recommend skipping it.

Just over a mile from Torc Waterfall is Muckross House, Gardens and Traditional Farms. This magnificent Victorian mansion is one of Ireland’s most stately homes.  The majestic house, built in the Tudor style in the 19th century, sits overlooking Muchroos Lake.  With some 65 rooms and gorgeous gardens, the mansion was constructed in preparation for a visit by Queen Victoria.  Today, the house is open to the public.  Cost: Youth (6 and up): $6.25; Adult: $9.50.  Entrance to the gardens is free.  While there, check out the Muckross Traditional Farm, Craft Shop, and Garden Restaurant. 

About a mile from Muckross House is Muckross Abbey.  Both an Old Irish Monastery and modern Irish graveyard, this ancient abbey is situated in the middle of Killarney National Park.  Founded in the 15th century, this Franciscan friary built of local limestone is preserved to a high standard.  The tower, added after the church was built, is the only Franciscan tower in Ireland and is as wide as the church itself. 

Close to Muckross Abbey on the way to Killarney is one of the best-kept secrets on the ROK: the Blue Pool Nature Reserve.  Visitors are often struck by the quiet of this natural sanctuary and beauty of its clear, horseshoe-shaped, greenish-blue water. 

Continue on another mile past the Blue Pool, and you’ll come to Dinis Cottage, a historical cottage which dates back to the 1700s.  It has operated as a tea room for more than 200 years and offers both indoor and outdoor seating.  It’s a nice spot to end a long walk with tea and scones or a hot chocolate and marshmallows. 

Photo: The Lake Hotel Killarney

Where to stay?

My advice: stay in or very near to Killarney.  There are many nice towns along the route, but Killarney, which is actually the official start and end point of the Ring of Kerry, is a lovely historic town full of lots of hotels, restaurants, shops, and pubs. 

A favorite with regular visitors to Killarney, the International Hotel Killarney is one of the best-loved hotels in town.  With its spacious rooms (and bathrooms – somewhat rare for Europe), central location (just a stone’s throw from where most tour busses depart each day), and reasonable rates, it’s no wonder this charming hotel is consistently rated one of the top hotels in Killarney.  It also has a fantastic pub that’s popular with locals and visitors alike.   Hannigan’s Bar and Restaurant has a cozy atmosphere and really good food, serving all locally-sourced produce.  It has live Irish music every weekend and “pours a lovely pint” of Guinness (as my father-in-law, the Guinness connoisseur and regular visitor to Killarney, will tell you).  Rooms start at $110/night. 

Centrally-located in the heart of town, right at the gateway to the ROK is the Killarney Plaza Hotel and Spa.  With some rooms overlooking the part of town where horse-drawn carriages take visitors on area tours and other rooms overlooking Killarney National Park, this hotel boasts a great location.  It’s right across the street from where most tour busses depart each morning, and there are dozens of great restaurants and pubs within strolling distance of the front door.  It also has very affordable rates, making this an excellent choice for the budget-conscious family.  Rooms start at $75/night. 

KidTripster Tip: Parking at this hotel can be tricky, so take that into consideration if you’ll be renting a car.

Located just two miles outside Killarney town on the shores of Lough Leane is The Lake Hotel Killarney, a gorgeous four-star, family-run hotel with old world charm and some of the most stunning views in County Kerry.  While on the pricier side, the hotel’s location just can’t be beat. Killarney National Park is immediately adjacent to the grounds of the hotel and extends over 25,000 acres.  Visitors who stay here are just a short walk or cycle away from several of the most popular attractions within the park like Mucrosss Abbey, Muckross House and Gardens, and Torc Waterfall.  Rooms start at $189/night. 

KidTripster Tip: Even if you don’t stay here, have lunch or dinner in The Lakeside Bistro, the more casual of the hotel’s two restaurants.  It has stunning views, a gorgeous patio (weather permitting, of course), and incredible fish and chips!

Also located on the shores of the Lakes of Killarney, but along the ROK route is The Europe Hotel and Resort, a modern, five-star hotel that is pretty spectacular and yet, family-friendly.  Most lakeview rooms have balconies with panoramic views of the magnificent Lough Leane and MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, while golfside rooms overlook the 16th fairway of Killarney’s Mahony’s Point Golf Course.  While the hotel has fantastic restaurants and a spectacular spa, there also are a wide range of amenities like an indoor pool, indoor and outdoor vitality pools, indoor tennis courts, small playground, and pony rides on the grounds of the hotel.  Rooms start at $275/night.

For those wanting to stay in Kenmare and drive the ROK clockwise, check out Sheen Falls Lodge or Brook Lane Hotel.

For those looking for more self-catering options, check out Irish Holiday RentalsIrish Country Cottages or of course, Airbnb and VRBO; all offer a good selection. 

Photo: Discover Ireland

Getting there

From the USA, the best way to get to Killarney is to fly into Cork, Shannon or Dublin. By car, Killarney is 90 minutes from Cork, two hours from Shannon, and four hours from Dublin.

Or consider Dungarvan as home base for your Irish adventure and make Killarney a two-day side trip for there!

And before renting a car (or hiring a private tour guide) in Ireland, be sure to check out our 7 tips for driving in Ireland.

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