Don’t let the name scare you off! This resort offers budget-friendly adventures for the entire family.
Nestled in the San Juan Mountains near Durango, Purgatory is a smaller Colorado resort that continues to grow by adding more lifts and acres. It offers the best of both worlds – varied terrain for expert skiers along with family-friendly runs and activities, all at an affordable price. Your family will leave with lasting memories and not an empty wallet!
What to do on the slopes at Purgatory Resort?
Of the 99 runs across 1,605 skiable acres, a vast majority of them are either beginner or intermediate. But don’t worry, there are still advanced runs for that awesome skier or snowboarder in the family. For adventure seekers, be sure to check out the five terrain parks, ranging from beginner to advanced.
My family and I have skied a lot of resorts in Colorado, where finding lift tickets under $100 is rare. I can confidently say that Purgatory is one of the most affordable. Cost: Youth (6 & under) Free; Youth $55; Teen $70; Adult $89. And ski lessons here are free for first-timers. Yes, free! It’s a 2-hour lesson for anyone (age 4 and over) who has never skied or boarded before. All you have to do is buy a full-day lift ticket (which you were likely going to do anyway). For continuing lessons, Purgatory offers group and private sessions for both kids and adults through its ski school. You can choose from half- or full-day options. Cost: starts at $39/person.
Looking to refine your skills? Purgatory offers specialty clinics. Opt to Master the Moguls or take a ladies-only lesson. These speciality clinics are only offered at specific times, so be sure to check the website.
Snowbiking is a unique way to explore the mountain. If you’re like me and have never tried a snowbike before, take a lesson. Cost: $98; includes rental. If you already know how to snowbike, you can just rent one. Cost: $49/day.
Daycare is available for kids who don’t want to ski or snowboard. The Den takes little ones from 2 months to 4 years old. It provides indoor crafts and activities, plus outdoor play in the snow. Kids (age 3 & 4) can spend the morning working on basic ski skills and then have the option to head back out for more after lunch. The best part for parents? The staff will text you updates throughout the day so you can have peace of mind that your kiddo is safe and happy. Cost: Half day $70; Full day $90.
KidTripster TIp: A night out in Purgatory (I know, that sounds strange!) is easy for parents with the resort’s Kids Night Out program. From 5:30 to 9:00 p.m., kids (age 2 months to 10 years old) can enjoy dinner, crafts, games, movies, and a climbing wall. The program is offered on select evenings throughout the ski season, so check availability in advance. Cost: $30/child.
What to do off the slopes at Purgatory Resort?
Tubing, dog sledding, and snowcats – oh my! The adventures are numerous at Purgatory and again, affordable.
A dogsledding tour through Durango Dog Ranch is an awesome way to see the San Juan Mountains from a different vantage point. The daily tours leave from basecamp every hour. The typical ride is a one-hour-long, or you can opt for a longer, half-day tour complete with picnic. You can meet the dogs, drive the sled, and experience a thrilling ride, topped off with hot chocolate at the end. These tours book quickly, so be sure to reserve in advance. Cost: $400/2 adults/sled; $475/2 two adults & 1 child/sled; no age limit.
If sleds aren’t your thing, you can still enjoy the scenery with a scenic snowcat ride. The one-hour tour offers breathtaking views from the top of the mountain. Kids need to be at least one-year-old to take this tour. Or opt for the snowcat dinner excursion. You’ll take the scenic ride, plus enjoy a fresh gourmet dinner, appetizers, dessert and drinks. It’s pretty pricey for the whole family; may be better as a date night! Cost: Scenic tour $50/person; Dinner tour $250/person.
For a much more affordable evening, check out the sleigh rides. There are typically three rides per night, and they run about half the cost of the snowcat tour. Cost: Youth $15; Adult $25.
For a little more activity, sign up for one of the daily, guided snowshoe tours. The après snowshoe tour ends with hot chocolate, beer, wine, and cheese at the Powderhouse.
The Snow Coaster Tubing Hill is a blast for kids, big and small. Enjoy as many runs as you can fit into an hour (or two). Cost: $10/hour.
KidTripster Tip: Purgatory has a list of all of the events for the coming week posted at the resort. Look in the hotel lobby, lift ticket office or restaurants to make sure you don’t miss anything!
Feel like venturing out? Head to Durango for a day; it’s only about 30 minutes away. Pop into local shops, restaurants, and galleries along historic Main Street. Or opt for a day adventure onboard the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The 45-mile railway takes you through southwest Colorado’s wilderness from Durango to the old mining town of Silverton. The 3-1/2-hour journey (one way) is lined with views not available by car. You’ll have time for lunch and exploration in Silverton before heading back. You also can add adventures like snowmobiling on to your trip. Train cost: Youth $39; Adult $65.
KidTripster Tip: Purgatory offers a shuttle service on the weekends from the resort to Durango for only $10/person. The shuttle can take you other places, too, like Mesa Verde National Park. Just ask about pricing.
Where to eat at Purgatory Resort?
For breakfast, check out the Village Market and Deli. It has breakfast burritos, bagels, and espresso drinks. My favorite was the egg croissant sandwich. There are also salads and sandwiches for lunch. Kids have their own options for both breakfast and lunch. Or you can grab deli meat and cheese to make your own sandwiches for the mountain.
For lunch, I recommend Purgy’s Slopeside Restaurant. If the weather is nice, sit outside on the patio overlooking the base of the mountain. There’s a bar outside or a cafeteria inside; both serve the same pub food. It has a limited kids’ menu, but the chicken fingers were a hit. The burgers don’t disappoint either. For dinner, Purgy’s transforms its menu into more local, refined fare. I had the hummus platter, which was delicious and big enough for a meal in itself or to share with the table. The salmon dish with risotto had my husband licking his plate. There’s also elk, chicken, and steak on the menu, plus a list of enticing salads. Purgy’s is open for breakfast, too, serving up omelettes, parfaits, and waffles.
The most kid-friendly place that we found was Paradise Pizza and Ice Creamery located in the Village Center building. Our daughter went straight to the ice cream counter, but we convinced her to eat some delicious pizza first. It’s laidback and fast. If you’re not in the mood for pizza, Paradise serves calzones and salads. It’s open for lunch and dinner.
KidTripster Tip: Feel like staying in instead? Order a pizza from the Village Market and Deli to bake back at your condo.
On the mountain, you can grab a quick bite at the Powderhouse located between lifts 1 and 2. It’s cafeteria-style and serves up soups, hot dogs, and sandwiches. You have two lunch options at Dante’s Backside Bistro off of Joan’s Jubilee Trail. Sit downstairs for quick soups, salads, and other hot items. Or head upstairs for a sit-down experience with small plates and a full bar, plus an incredible view of the ski area and surrounding mountains.
During the evening, head into Durango to check out some of the local breweries. Our favorite is Steamworks Brewing Company (801 E. 2nd Ave.) The menu is extensive – everything from pizza, burgers, steaks, fish, pasta, and even a full cajun boil complete with crab, shrimp, sausage, potatoes and corn! If you’re a beer lover, definitely get a sampler so you can try all the house beers; the Colorado Kolsch is a favorite.
KidTripster Tip: Ask to sit at the table next to the window looking into the kitchen; it provides endless entertainment for kids!
Where to stay at Purgatory Resort?
Staying in the village is both convenient and affordable. There are options ranging from studio to 5-bedroom units with free parking, fitness center, and private decks. Each unit has either a full kitchen or kitchenette, making it perfect for eating in.
Purgatory Village and Lodge are located at the base of the mountain. We stayed in the Purgatory Village building. The convenience factor was phenomenal. The ski school was in the building, so we didn’t have to lug gear very far. Our balcony overlooked the base area, so I could see my daughter start her ski lesson in the morning and even listen to the live music at the end of the day. Not to mention, the pizza restaurant (with ice cream!) was steps away. These units also offer kitchens, so stop at the grocery store on your way to the resort. Next door is Purgatory Lodge, another convenient option. It houses Purgy’s Slopeside Restaurant and is only steps away from the lift. One of the perks of staying here is the access to Durango Mountain Club. This exclusive club has a game room with a foosball table and video games, plus a private dining area and bar. The best part, though, is the heated outdoor pool and water slide. I can’t even count how many times my toddler went down that slide, laughing all the way. The pool overlooks the base of the mountain, so it’s lively and fun! The pool area would sway us to stay at the Lodge next time, so we could have easier access to the club, though you can use the pool as a guest of Purgatory Village. Rates start at $105/night.
Getting to Purgatory Resort
Purgatory is located in southwestern Colorado. It’s most easily accessible by flying into the Durango-La Plata County Airport. It’s a small airport but does offer direct flights from Denver, Phoenix, and Dallas. It’s about an hour’s drive to Purgatory; the resort does offer shuttle service for a fee. The closest major airport is Albuquerque, which is about 4 hours away, or Denver which is about 7 hours away.
Amy Sward is a 4-time Emmy Award-winning writer and producer. She spends her free time exploring the western mountains with her husband and 3-year-old daughter.
This writer received a complimentary stay and some activities for the purpose of this review. However, all opinions expressed are solely her own.
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