Ideal for tweens & teens: we’ve road-tested an adventure-packed trip into the Real Middle Earth on New Zealand’s North Island.
Movie director Peter Jackson may have put New Zealand on many families’ bucket lists when he set the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies in this country, but New Zealand has more to offer than stunning scenery and real hobbit holes. I’d go so far as to call New Zealand the “adventure sport capital of the world.” And because of all the unique, adrenaline-filled activities here, I strongly believe that you should wait to venture down under until your children are tweens or teens and old enough to participate in some truly brag-worthy activities.
So go. Explore. Find your real Middle Earth.
Where to visit in New Zealand?
That’s a tough question. New Zealand is made up to two islands – the North Island and the South Island – which are connected by either air or ferry. Both are worthy destinations. To visit both and do them justice, you’d need close to three weeks – really. But knowing that few families have three weeks at their disposal (including my family), you may have to choose which island to visit. Most international flights will fly into Auckland on the North Island. The North Island has a mix of attractions: Maori culture, geothermal features, beach scene, plus adventure sports galore. My son described it as a cross between Hawaii and the Pacific Northwest.
New Zealanders, also known as Kiwis, will tell you that the South Island offers the more stunning scenery with snow-capped mountain ranges and aquamarine alpine lakes. If your family loves to hike, the South Island offers epic trails. And there are plenty of adventure sports here, too, including the country’s famed bungy jump off Kawarau Bridge in Queenstown. The South Island is more rural than the North Island (which is pretty rural to begin with), and it’s landscape is often compared to Alaska.
For this trip, we focused on the North Island. You’ll notice that our itinerary flies into Auckland but then leaves straightaway. I think the attractions that are most likely to please kids (and parents) are situated outside of the big city. I’ve centered this itinerary around the town of Rotorua. Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but I think it serves as the most ideal home base.
When to go to New Zealand?
Located in the Southern Hemisphere, New Zealand enjoys summer during December, January, and February. The average high temperature is in the upper 60s and low 70s on the North Island; temperatures run a little cooler on the South Island. Summer is likely the time of year that you’ll choose to visit. However, if you’re looking to avoid the crowds and maybe get a better rate, early fall is also a good choice.
What to know about driving in New Zealand?
Before you plot an itinerary in New Zealand, there are a few things to know about driving here. First, New Zealanders drive on the left. Stepping off a 13-hour flight and directly into a car where you’re forced to “stay left” can be a little disconcerting for Americans. However, you’ll be amazed at how quickly you adapt.
Outside of Auckland, there are really no major highways. Most of the roads are what Americans would describe as two-lane country highways. The speed limit is 100 kilometers, or 62 miles, per hour most of the time, but you won’t be going that fast because of the windy roads. Simply put, driving in New Zealand is slow-going. If you’re mapping app says two hours, add at least 20 minutes.
Where to stay in New Zealand?
Outside of Auckland, you’ll find most hotels are best described as 3-star properties. Since we planned to stay in one spot and do day trips, we opted for an Airbnb property instead. It was a good choice. After a day of togetherness, each of us – my two sons, my husband, and I – would retreat to our own corner of the condo to recharge. Our well-appointed condo was located at the Ramanda Resort Rotorua Marama. It was positioned on the canal that connects Lake Rotorua and Lake Rotoiti. The condo was about a 20-minute drive to Rotorua on the south end of the lake. In retrospect, I wish that we’d been closer to town to cut down on some of the driving.
Now, after understanding how long the drives can be in New Zealand, I’d actually recommend renting a campervan. Campervans are what Americans refer to as Class B sleeper vans or Class C RVs with a sleeping bunk over the cab. They’re typically smaller than the average size camper in the USA, but don’t let that dissuade you. There’s a strong campervan culture in New Zealand. Campgrounds are plentiful, and parking isn’t difficult. If you’re willing to rough it, I actually think that you’ll see more of the country this way. Ideally, you’d plan your vacation to drive a bit in the morning hours, take part in some adventure activity, and then arrive at your next campground to rest and recuperate during the evening. Don’t worry, no one here is judging you; no one cares if you get a shower every day! There are plenty of companies that rent campervans in New Zealand, including Britz, Jucy, and Maui.
For my recommendations about what to do in New Zealand, read on. This is the fun stuff! Know that the days are arranged with the assumption that you’re staying at a central location in Rotorua. However, if you opt for a campervan, you can easily rearrange the days (and add others) to fit a mapped driving route.
Editor’s note: All prices listed in this article are given in U.S. dollars; they are approximations and vary given the exchange rate with the New Zealand dollar.
DAY ONE
Getting there
If you’re flying from either San Francisco or Los Angeles, you’ll arrive in Auckland in the morning. Get your rental car and then hit the road… on the left! Stay left!
KidTripster Tip: When reserving your car, make sure to request an automatic, if you don’t drive a manual transmission. Also if you want built-in GPS, you’ll have to request that, too, as it’s not standard. With my cell phone plan, it was actually cheaper for me to pay $10/day for international coverage (and access to my mapping app) than to pay the daily GPS fee. If you don’t want to pay at all, download offline Google maps when you’re connected to WiFi. The maps are pretty complete, but make sure you get the entire area that you are traveling to; it may require more than one download.
KidTripster Tip: If you’re flying from the USA to New Zealand, you will cross the International Date Line, meaning you lose a day. Make sure to take this change into account when planning your itinerary. The good news? On the way home, you gain a day; meaning if you leave on a Saturday in New Zealand, you arrive on a Saturday in the USA.
What to do?
On your way to Rotorua in the central part of the North Island, you’ll be tempted to stop at Hobbiton (501 Buckland Rd., Hinuera, Matamata). This family farm-turned-movie set is the location of The Shire in The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movie trilogies. The only way to access these 12 acres is on a guided tour. You’ll have plenty of photo ops in front of hobbit holes (disappointingly, there are no interior sets), the Party Tree, and the Green Dragon Inn, while your guide gives you some behind-the-scene details on how director Peter Jackson made the Hobbits looks so short and Gandalf so tall. Your tour ends at the inn with a complimentary drink – either a traditional ale, hard cider or non-alcoholic ginger beer. The beef and ale pies here are also pretty tasty. It’s imperative that you book this tour in advance, as it can sell out. Cost: Youth (0-8) Free with paying adult; Youth (9-16) $29; Adult $59. Tours depart every 30 minutes between 8:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m.; tours run two hours in length.
That all being said, unless you’re a diehard fan, I’d skip Hobbiton. It’s a pricey tour that often drags because of the large number of photo-taking tourists that you’re grouped with. While the hobbit holes are Instagram-worthy, you don’t really see much more than you do on the online videos at the Hobbiton website.
KidTripster Tip: If you are a Lord of the Rings or The Hobbit superfan, know that there are more than 150 locations throughout the country that were used in the filming of the movies. Many companies offer tours to see these locations.
Where to eat?
If you have a condo with a kitchen or are renting a campervan, I’d recommend stopping at a local grocery and stocking up. There are several chains in the Rotorua area: Pack’n Save, Countdown, and my favorite, FreshChoice.
DAY TWO
Where to eat?
You’ve got lots of adventuring to do today, so start off with a good breakfast at Capers Epicurean (1181 Eruera St.). French toast, eggs Benedict, and Kiwi offerings like sultana and apple bircher (muesli) – it will be hard to choose! This airy cafe, which also serves lunch and dinner, is located in downtown Rotorua. If you have any dietary restrictions – gluten-free, dairy-free, refined sugar-free, vegetarian or vegan – you’ll find plenty of options. The smoothies and coffees are good choices, too!
What to do?
New Zealanders are risk-takers who relish living on the edge. So on your first full day in New Zealand, I’d recommend jumping in with both feet at Velocity Valley, previously called Agroventures Adventure Park (1335 Paradise Valley Rd., Ngongotaha). Think of this place as a mini amusement park for adrenaline junkies. If you have younger kids (ages 3 and up) in your family, a spin in the mini jet boats will provide them with some excitement, though tweens and teens likely will find these rides too tame. Or fly in the Freefall Xtreme wind tunnel (ages 6 and up), similar to the iFly experience in the USA. Also younger ones can try Shweeb Racer, the world’s first, human-powered monorail racetrack. You climb in a transparent pod with pedals and then race against another pedaler. You need to be 6 years old (and meet the height requirements) to pedal on your own; kids who are 5 and under can ride with a parent.
But the draw for my teenaged sons and husband was Swoop, a giant rope swing that fits one, two or three passengers who ride in a superman-style position. You’re slowly raised to a height of 141 feet; then you release the rip cord, sending you and your screaming mates plummeting toward the ground at speeds of up to 81 mph! Watch and you’ll see what I mean. Of all the adventure activities that we did in New Zealand, this ride was my husband’s favorite. Riders need to be older than 6 (and meet the height requirements).
Then there’s the Rotorua Bungy. Contrary to popular belief, the first bungy jump was not in New Zealand (it was England), but the country is synonymous with the death-defying dive. At Velocity Valley, you’re outfitted with a 3-point harness around your waist and ankles before diving 143 feet. My family and I enjoyed watching others take the plunge while we firmly stood on the ground. Personally, I’m not a fan of hanging upside-down for that long. But if you’ve always wanted to bungy, here’s your chance! In New Zealand, the legal age to bungy jump is 10 years old and a minimum of 77 pounds; kids (age 10 to 16) need parental or guardian consent before jumping.
Velocity Valley cost: Single rides $34; Family pass (10 credits) $175; activities cost one credit per person, but the bungy jump counts as 4 credits. Video is recorded on all the rides; you can purchase it for a fee to share your adventures with friends.
Want more thrills? Then roll over to OGO Rotorua (525 Ngongotaha Rd., Fairy Springs), home of the two guys who invented this activity. Here, you (and up to two friends) can jump inside a giant inflatable ball and roll down the world’s longest, fastest, steepest straight track or the longest zigzag course. In the summer, you do this activity with water inside the ball, giving you the sensation of riding a water slide. In the cooler months, it’s done dry. And no worries, there’s no tumbling upside down while in the ball. Watch here. Cost: $34-$105/person, depending on the number of rides, courses, and whether you opt for video; know that you can take your own GoPro camera. Bring swimsuits and towels, if you plan to ride in the warmer months.
KidTripster Tip: It can get a bit nippy between runs, but OGO Rotorua has installed hot tubs at the top and bottom of the tracks to keep you warm.
KidTripster Tip: According to our KidTripster Teens, trying to run inside the ball while going downhill is the most fun. I’m just going to take their word for it!
DAY THREE
What to do?
Granted, if you’re staying in Rotorua and not in a campervan, you’ll probably end up driving a bit more today than you’d like, as it’s a full 2-hour drive west to one of New Zealand’s most popular natural wonders, Waitomo Caves, known for its glowworms. We opted for the 4-hour Lost World Epic tour with Waitomo Adventures (654 Waitomo Caves Rd.). The tour starts with your family doing a collective, 328-foot abseil down into a massive cavern; it’s the longest, free-standing, commercial abseil in the world. Don’t worry if you’ve never abseiled before; it’s not hard to learn, and the guide lowers down next to you on a separate rope, talking you through the entire process while clutching a back-up safety tether. It’s a long way down! As you descend, make sure to take it all in – the giant spagatites (large, green, hand-like plants) hanging for above and the roaring Mangapu River flowing below. You then scramble over lots of rocks, making your way through various rooms of the cave until finally arriving in the glowworm cavern. Spoiler alert: the glowworms are really maggots, and it’s their feces that glow. Don’t worry, you don’t actually touch them. Then comes my least favorite part: the climb out. The first ladder is about 100 feet, straight up. Yes, you’re harnessed, and yes, you can stop to take a break, but I’m not going to lie; it’s strenuous. The remaining four ladders are at an angle, making them easier to climb. You then navigate the ledges of the craggy, upper level called the Spider Hole and emerge into a jungle-like setting.
The guides do an excellent job of ensuring your safety on this tour. All the equipment and lines are double-checked before you embark, and you’re clipped into a safety line whenever there’s a risk of falling. The guides are vigilant about watching everyone to make sure that they’re following all the safety rules. To do this tour, you need to be at least 10 years old. However, I’d actually recommend at least 13 years old. Holding your rope while abseiling and certainly the climb out require strength that some 10-year-olds may not have.
KidTripster Tip: Wear shorts, thick socks, and a warm top; no jeans. The guides will provide you with coveralls and boots. If you have climbing gloves, bring those, too, as they’re not provided. Otherwise, slip your sleeve over the palm of your hand when working the rope on the abseil.
KidTripster Tip: Know that no cameras or GoPros are allowed on the trip. The rule is strictly enforced. The guide does take photos that are included in the price. However, make sure you’re asking for photos when you want them. We didn’t walk away with as many photos as we’d have liked.
The Lost World Epic tour is a dry caving experience. There’s also a 7-hour wet version of this tour that includes black water tubing inside the cave for ages 15 and up. However, four hours was pushing it for my family; seven hours would have been way too long. Waitomo Adventures also offers other wet tours, but know this – there are eels in the water inside the caves. While you’re wearing a wetsuit, this fact was enough for me to thank my lucky stars that I’d booked a dry experience. I’m not a fan of eels!
Cost: $227/person, if you book the early bird rate; otherwise it’s $290/person. Reservations are essential.
KidTripster Tip: Book the morning tour. Why? After you finish, you’re going to need some time to recover. Grab some lunch and a coffee in Otorohanga before making the 2-hour drive back to Rotorua, if that’s where you’re staying.
