Day Five: Newport, Florence & Coos Bay
After a relaxing few days at the Salishan Coastal Lodge, it was time to move out. The planned drive on Day 5 was about 120 miles, or two-and-a-half hours, with the end point being Coos Bay. We got an early start because there’s a lot to see on this stretch of coastline.
What to Do
As we headed south on Highway 101 towards Newport, we pulled over at the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. Unfortunately the area was closed to visitors. In normal times, the lighthouse and the area around it is open. We’d been here before, so we weren’t too disappointed. If you go, be sure to check in at the Interpretive Center. Rangers can tell you if lighthouse tours are available, and whether the tide pools are visible. Parking costs $7.
There’s another lighthouse just a few miles further south. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is part of the Yaquina Bay State Recreation Site. It’s the only existing Oregon lighthouse with living quarters attached. It’s believed to be the oldest structure in Newport. This is a scenic area and a nice place to have a picnic or just stretch your legs. There are hiking trails and beach access.
KidTripster Tip: If you’re looking to spend some time at the beach, we’d also recommend stopping at Fogarty Creek State Recreation Area, near Depoe Bay. Or Beverly Beach State Park, near Newport. Both are located right off the highway, and have parking and beach access.
When visiting Newport, we enjoy stopping at the Oregon Coast Aquarium (2820 SE Ferry Slip Road).Because of Covid, it was closed during our summer road trip. However, it’s since reopened. The aquarium, is one of Oregon’s top tourist attractions, and it showcases the many animals and habitats on the Pacific coast. There are indoor and outdoor exhibits, as well as the “Passages of the Deep” exhibit which takes visitors in an underwater tunnel to provide a look at life deep in the Pacific. The aquarium is open daily. Admission is $24.95 for adults, $19.95 for ages 13-17, $14.94 for kids, babies and toddlers are free. You’ll probably spend an hour or two here.
If you want to stay longer in Newport, here’s a list of what to do and where to stay when visiting.
As we continued down Highway 101, we pulled off at Devil’s Churn Day Use Area. My family knows I love to pull off at scenic viewpoints. This is a nice one because it has a view, plus a chance to stretch your legs. If you follow the short, paved hike from the parking lot, it will take you to a lookout where you can see the waves crash and churn into the cliffs. Parking is $5.
Just a few miles down the road, we stopped again. This time at the Heceta Head Lighthouse. (Yes, I also brake for all lighthouses as you’ll soon find out later in this article.) This picturesque lighthouse is one of the most photographed on the Oregon coast. It’s perched a thousand feet up. The lights first went on here in 1894. There’s a parking lot at the base of the lighthouse. From there you take a half-mile trail uphill. It’s a wide, gravel path. Although it’s uphill, it’s not too strenuous. You can walk right up to the lighthouse. There’s another trail that leads you above it. On the way up, you’ll pass the Heceta Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast. The assistant lighthouse keeper’s house is now a B&B. While most rooms only accommodate two guests, there are two rooms that offer a twin rollaway for a family of three.
The parking lot can get busy as you can also access the beach from here. A day use fee is required.
Next up, we stopped at the Sea Lion Caves (91560 Highway 101 near Florence). Located right on the highway, it’s billed as “America’s Largest Sea Cave.” Established in 1932, it’s been a roadside attraction for decades. Stellar Sea Lion call this cave home. They come and go at their leisure and visitors can see, hear, and, yes, smell them from viewing areas within the cave. The cave is 12-stories high and stretches the length of a football field. To access it, you’ll board an elevator that descends 208 feet. It takes just under a minute to get to the bottom. The caves are open daily except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Admission is $14 for those 12 and up, $8 for kids ages 5-12, kids younger than 4 are free.
We were back in the car for about ten minutes when we stopped yet again. As Highway 101 moves inland towards Florence, you’ll see signs for Darlingtonia State Natural Site. The first time we stopped here was a few years ago, and we had no idea what it was. Now we tell everyone about this cool spot. The 18-acre botanical park is located just off 101. The star attraction here is the Darlingtonia California, also called a cobra lily. It’s a rare, carnivorous plant. It stands up to 20 inches high and have hollow tubes. The nectar inside the tubes attracts insects and once inside the plant they become trapped. The plants flower in late spring through early summer. The short trail is located right off the parking lot. There’s a boardwalk where you can stand and look at the plants. You won’t be here for too long, but you’ll be glad you stopped because how often do you see a field of carnivorous plants?
Once we’d made it to Florence, we were in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. This area, all 31,000-acres of it, is one of the largest expanses of coastal sand dunes in the world. It’s an actual geological marvel. The dunes are comprised of rock that was washed downstream by rivers, tumbling into sand. Although the dunes have been here for thousands of years, the area is constantly changing due to the impact of water and wind. The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area stretches 40-miles, from Florence to Coos Bay.
We followed the signs to the Umpqua River Lighthouse (1020 Lighthouse Road in Winchester Bay). It serves as a museum and tours are available, although it wasn’t open during our visit, due to the pandemic.
The lighthouse looks the like one at Heceta Head, but it’s considerably less scenic. If you have to pick one lighthouse to visit, go with Heceta Head. In spite of the lackluster lighthouse, I was glad we stopped because there’s a large platform with views and information about the sand dunes.
Where to Eat
I’d recommend eating lunch in Florence. There are all kinds of restaurants here, but, truth be told, we ended up getting Taco Bell drive-thru. We wanted to keep moving, because, as I told you, there’s a lot to see on this stretch of highway. Car tacos, for the win!
Where to Stay
By early evening, we’d arrived at our stopping point for the day, Bay Point Landing (92443 Cape Arago Highway) in Coos Bay. This has quickly become one of our family’s favorite spots on the Oregon coast.
Bay Point Landing is a modern camping destination. You can roll up in your own rig, or rent an airstream or small cabin.
There are three styles of cabins. The “Kamp Haus” cabins have a queen bed, a full bathroom and a kitchenette, and sleep two. The larger “Drift” cabins have waterfront views. There’s a bedroom with a king-size bed, a full bathroom, a kitchenette and a living room with a pull-out sofa. The Drift even has a dishwasher! It sleeps four. The “Dune” cabin holds six guests. There’s a bedroom, a sleeping loft, a kitchenette and a full bath, including a tub.
While we prefer staying in the cabins, Bay Point Landing also rents luxe airstreams. These units sleep four and have a kitchenette and bathroom.
Whether you rent a cabin, airstream or RV site, you’ll have your own fire pit. Your reservation will come with two complimentary bundles of firewood. If you need more, there’s an awesome shop on site that sells firewood and much more. You’ll find all kinds of local goodies for sale like IPAs, Pendleton blankets and fixings to make s’mores.
Guests at Bay Point Landing also have access to a heated saltwater pool, a fitness center and a kids’ den. There’s also a playground, bocce ball and horseshoes. There’s a beach alongside the bay where kids can play. This isn’t my favorite beach in this area, but if your kids like playing in the sand, it’s conveniently located.
After several days on the road, we had a pile of dirty laundry to contend with. I used the laundry facilities at Bay Point Landing. Just like everything else here, the facilities were clean and modern. No worries about scrounging up quarters, just a swipe of your card and you’re good to go.
If you’re wondering, yes, pets are welcome, too. However you’ll need to select “Traveling with a Pet” when making your reservation. Rates for airstreams and cabins start at around $140 per night.
We didn’t travel far on Day 6, but we did make it to one of three amazing state parks in the area. Click below to keep reading.