What is it like to take your family on a European river cruise?
My family and I have had the good fortune to cruise all over the world. We’ve been on big ship cruises with non-stop activities, sailing the Caribbean and the coast of Mexico. We’ve boarded small ship cruises to explore the Sea of Cortez and Alaska’s majestic Inside Passage. We’ve cruised on an even smaller 90-foot ship through the incomparable Galápagos Islands, and we’ve sailed among mammoth icebergs in the frigid seas off the coast of Antarctica.
Recently, we had the opportunity to experience a different style of water travel: river cruising. River cruising affords families all the advantages of other forms of cruising: the ability to visit multiple destinations in a single trip, unlimited and seriously scrumptious food and drink, and the convenience of unpacking just once. And like other small ship experiences, river cruises include all your on-shore excursions and provide world-class, personalized attention in a more intimate setting.
We decided to sail with family-owned AmaWaterways. The company offers cruises on rivers around the world – from the vibrant Mekong in Asia to the wild Chobe River in Africa to the romantic Rhine in Europe. We chose to cruise the Danube River through Hungary, Austria, and Germany during the holiday season, taking in enchanting Christmas markets along the way. From Budapest to Vienna and beyond, we were bedazzled by the sights, sounds, and smells of the season – thousands of lights hung across cobblestone streets, local children caroling in the market square, and the fragrance of hot, mulled wine wafting through the crisp night air. Yes, it was pretty magical.
KidTripster Tip: In addition to the Christmas market cruises, AmaWaterways offers other specialtycruises for wine lovers, golfers, and repeat cruisers.
No matter which AmaWaterways itinerary you choose, I can promise that you’ll have plenty of quality family time. Time seems to move more slowly on the water, and not just because your cruise ship is sailing at an unhurried speed of 10 miles per hour. You’ll eat together, explore together, and maybe even play board games together in the evening while listening to the lounge pianist entertain you with his impressive repertoire. It’ll be time well spent.
KidTripster Tip: One big advantage of river cruising? No seasickness! Take it from someone who’s always queasy at sea.
What is an AmaWaterways ship like?
The entire AmaWaterways fleet is comprised of 24 ships, stationed around the world. They range in size from the cozy, 28-passenger Zambezi Queen to the new crown jewel, the 196-passenger AmaMagna which measures twice the width of a traditional European river ship. To emphasize the family origins of AmaWaterways, each ship is given its own godmother when christened. For example, television travel host Samantha Brown is godmother to the AmaMagna.
We sailed on the 433-foot AmaLea, home to 156 passengers and 51 crew members when filled to capacity. (That’s a staff-to-guest ratio of one-to-three!) Her decks are named after musical instruments – Piano, Cello, and Violin – plus the upper Sun Deck which boasts a walking track and a small, heated pool with swim-up bar. On the lower level, you’ll find a hair salon, massage services, and a small fitness center. I’ll admit to being slightly disappointed that the gym didn’t have floor-to-ceiling windows so as to take advantage of the view while working off the calories from the previous night’s dinner. Instead, it had no view at all.
KidTripster Tip: A Wellness Host leads morning stretches and various fitness classes each day. I was surprised by how few people took advantage of this perk. My class with only one additional person was really more of a private session. On our cruise, the classes took place in the lounge and the gym. In the summer months, I’d assume that more people would participate with the classes held on the Sun Deck.
KidTripster Tip: The AmaLea travels with complimentary bikes (including kid sizes) and helmets on board which you can use on a guided tour or on your own. More on that a bit later.
What exceeded my expectations was our stateroom. Cabin space is always a bit stingy on a ship, but on the AmaLea, we were treated to the largest cabin that we’ve ever had. Room sizes vary from 155 to 350 square feet; ours was an ample 210 square feet. My husband and I shared one cabin with a queen-sized bed; our teenage sons shared another cabin with two twin beds. The cabin had AmaWaterway’s signature double balconies – a French balcony off the seating area and a full balcony off the sleeping area. With the cold temperatures, we unfortunately didn’t get to take advantage of the outdoor space. The bed was very comfortable, and the cabin itself was surprisingly quiet; we heard very little noise from the hallway.
The bathroom was well-appointed with high-quality bath products plus robes and slippers. It boasted a large rainfall shower head, lots of storage space, and a magnifying makeup mirror that extended from the wall. It also had this very clever feature: a magic window. Push a button, and the window would show through to the bedroom with a view of the outside, so you could be getting ready with your back to the bedroom and still see the scenery outside reflected in the bathroom mirror. Push the button again, and the window closed for privacy.
Each room also had a mini refrigerator, and bottled water was replenished daily. The housekeeping staff was outstanding and refreshed the cabin at least twice a day.
The ship had one main public space. In the morning, my family of early risers would grab pastries and fruit in the lounge, and I’d grab a latte from the 24/7 coffee machine next to the bar. In the late afternoon, my family and I would sit in the lounge and play cards or board games, available next to the bar. In the evening, we were treated to live music performed by the ship’s pianist.
KidTripster Tip: In the colder months, guests really don’t spend much time outdoors on the Sun Deck, meaning most passengers congregate in the lounge. If you’re looking for a quiet space to escape, you can sit at the stern of the ship in The Chef’s Table restaurant until the wait staff needs to prepare the space for dinner. On many occasions, I had the floor-to-ceiling view all to myself. And there’s a coffee machine here, too, for afternoon caffeine fixes.
KidTripster Tip: Free WiFi is available on AmaWaterway ships. Also, you can download the AmaWaterways app. Here, you’ll have access to the Daily Cruiser newsletter with the day’s itinerary as well as live tracking of your route.
What do you do on shore during an AmaWaterways river cruise?
Unlike big ship cruises, the cost of all your excursions is included in the fare, so you know exactly what you’re spending when you book. About a month prior to the cruise, you’re sent a detailed itinerary. For each port, you’re given choices – either morning and afternoon tours or in some cases, all-day trips. Each time period typically offers two options with varying activity levels. For example, in Budapest, we could take the classic city walking tour at a relaxed, regular or active pace. Or we could hike to Buda Castle overlooking the city. With two teenagers in tow, our family always chose the more active option. Plus, with the amount of food that we were eating on this cruise, we needed to be more active!
KidTripster Tip: These excursions with varied activity levels are one reason why AmaWaterways is an ideal option for a multi-generational family vacation. Grandparents, parents, and kids can choose activities that suit them best and then reunite at the end of the day to swap stories over dinner.
KidTripster Tip: My only complaint regarding the city tours has to do with the length. After being lead by a guide, you’re often given free time to explore on your own. For example, on our half-day trip to Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic, we followed a guide for about 1-1/2 hours. But then, we were given an additional two hours to explore. After 30 minutes, my family was done, so we simply waited in a coffee shop with WiFi.
Along with hikes, there were a number of bike tours offered. However, you can’t sign up for these rides until you board the ship. Knowing that my boys would bike in any weather, I was worried that the bike tours would be weather-dependent and possibly canceled. Fortunately, they weren’t. AmaWaterways provides a guide to lead the bike tours, plus your Wellness Host accompanies you. Whether the ride is appropriate for your child is really up to you to decide. Ask the cruise director to explain the route. Some city tours will require your child to be comfortable riding in traffic on the street.
Again, our cruise sailed over the holidays and featured visits to traditional European Christmas markets along the way. We also were treated to a very special Christmas celebration on board. To read a more detailed account of this particular cruise to determine if it would be a good holiday trip for your family, click here.
How’s the food on an AmaWaterways river cruise?
As I mentioned, my family has done a fair amount of cruising. On our small ship cruises in particular, we’ve always had impressive dining experiences. But hands down, AmaWaterways takes the cake (and the pastry chef on board bakes some delicious ones, too)! If your family is a bunch of foodies, you won’t be disappointed with the culinary offerings on board.
The day starts with an early risers’ breakfast of fresh pastries and fruit in the lounge. Both main breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style, which we absolutely prefer. No family with kids wants to sit through three, order-by-menu meals every day. However, if you rather, you can order from the menu at breakfast and lunch, as well. Dinner is a full table-service meal. Typically, you can choose from two appetizers, soup or salad, three entrées (meat, fish, and vegetarian options), and two desserts off the daily menu. There’s also an additional everyday menu with additional choices. With both lunch and dinner, you can indulge in a complimentary glass of wine or beer plus unlimited soft drinks, coffee, and tea. In between meals, tasty tapas and snacks are served in the main lounge; alcoholic beverages can be purchased. And then at night, another spread of substantial snacks and desserts appears in the lounge. No, there’s no possible way to go hungry on an AmaWaterways cruise!
KidTripster Tip: Every evening prior to dinner, a complimentary cocktail of the day is offered. One night, it could be a cosmo; the next night, it could be a lemon drop. If you’d like more than one, that’s okay, too.
KidTripster Tip: Have a food allergy? Let your travel agent or AmaWaterways representative know when you book. The kitchen staff will do their best to accommodate your needs. However, the kitchen isn’t able to provide a Kosher menu because of the rules regarding the food’s preparation.
All of what I’ve described happens in the main dining room. However, each AmaWaterways ship also has The Chef’s Table, an intimate specialty restaurant where the sous chef prepares a lavish, 7-course meal for 28 passengers. To attend, sign up when you board. While you could dine at The Chef’s Table more than once, the menu is the same from night to night. Of all the meals that my sons had in Europe on our two-week vacation, this was their favorite. In fact, eating was their favorite part of our AmaWaterways cruise!
KidTripster Tip: Unlike big ship cruises, you don’t pay an add-on fee to dine at The Chef’s Table. The experience is included in the cost of your cruise.
The week ends with the Captain’s Farewell Dinner. It’s recommended that you pack something a little dressier for the occasion. However, we’re a family of light packers (read one carry-on per person only), so I wasn’t about to dedicate space in my suitcase to an outfit and shoes that I’d only were once. Instead, we each wore a casual pair of pants and a sweater. It was fine; no one blinked an eye.
Finally, a word about seating: on AmaWaterways ships, it’s open seating, meaning you and your family can sit wherever you’d like. However, know that the tables are configured as 4- and 6-tops. So if you’re a family of four, you can choose to sit by yourselves or be joined by a couple. If you’re a family of five, you’ll likely be eating alone, unless there’s a single passenger willing to join your table.
KidTripster Tip: While it can be tempting for a family to keep to itself on a cruise, I’d encourage you to be friendly. Part of the fun of cruising on a smaller ship is the opportunity to get to know other people from around the world. And what better way to do that than to share a delicious meal together.
How much does an AmaWaterways river cruise cost?
Let me start by saying that small ship cruising, in general, isn’t cheap. You’ll pay more for the attentive service, first-rate cuisine, and inclusive shore excursions. But besides tipping, you don’t really have any additional costs.
The price of an AmaWaterways cruise will vary greatly depending on the route, the length, and the time of year. Admittedly, we chose one of the most expensive weeks of the year. (Let’s face it, holiday vacations are expensive.) The 7-night Christmas Markets on The Danube cruise aboard the AmaLea starts around $3,200 to $3,500 per person, depending on the promotion being offered. That’s for a room with a fixed window not the double balconies that I described earlier. There’s a discount for children (ages 4 to 17), depending on the class of cabin. Family groups of ten or more that book five or more cabins also get a discount. Rates don’t include airfare, though you can book airfare through AmaWaterways.
KidTripster Tip: In most cases, you’ll be flying into one port and flying out of another, necessitating one-way airline tickets. For example, we flew into Budapest and out of Munich for our cruise. While flying in and out of different cities sometimes can be more expensive, it’s not always the case. Check out the fares on our partner, AirTreks. It specializes in multi-city and one-way routes, often at a discount. Know that if you use this affiliate link to book your trip, KidTripster receives some coffee money from AirTreks at no additional cost to you. Thanks for your support.
A word about tipping: as is the case on every cruise, you’ll be asked to leave a tip for the staff at the end of your cruise. On AmaWaterways, the tips are split among the entire crew – those whom you have daily contact with and those whom you never see but are responsible for keeping the ship afloat. While tipping isn’t mandatory, it’s suggested that you tip €100 (about $111) per passenger for a 7-day European cruise. If you’re on the AmaMagna, the tip recommendation is €120 (about $134) per passenger. In addition, you’re asked to tip the cruise manager separately at €25 (about $28) per passenger for a 7-day European cruise. The suggestions vary slightly for other locations. We had such excellent service on our cruise that I didn’t balk at the suggested tip at all.
KidTripster Tip: It’s not necessary to have cash on hand. Tips can be charged on a credit card at the end of the cruise.
Should kids cruise on AmaWaterways?
There is a minimum age to sail with AmaWaterways, depending on the location. For Europe and Southeast Asia, children under 4 years old are not permitted on board. In addition, AmaWaterways doesn’t recommend the cruise for children, ages 4 to 7. For Africa, there’s a minimum age of 12 years old, due to safety precautions. All guests under the age of 18 are required to bunk with an adult. In our case, my oldest son is 19 years old, so my boys could stay together. Know that there are no child-specific programs or kids’ clubs on AmaWaterways ships.
I think that the sweet spot for river cruising with kids is age 7 through 13. Kids of this age have a natural curiosity about different cultures and are more likely to embrace the history-focused excursions. They also still enjoy spending time with you, their parents. That being said, if you’re traveling with a multi-generational group (think Grandma and Grandpa), I think kids of all ages would enjoy the family time. On our cruise, I observed one family with grandparents, three children and their spouses plus five grandchildren, ages 7 to 14, who were having a grand time sharing the experience together.
Still undecided? Read these 10 things to know before booking a river cruise.
This writer received a complimentary cruise for the purpose of this review. However, all opinions expressed are her own.
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