Day 3: Boat from Hvar to Kocula, Cycle 30 Miles
Today was scheduled to be another biking day. Our guides instructed us to dress for cycling and to bring a day pack with any needed items as we wouldn’t have access to our luggage until we arrived at the next hotel.
We left our bags outside of our rooms as instructed, then headed downstairs for breakfast. The other families trickled down while we dined, greeting each other with sleepy hellos. We filled up our bellies, and our water bottles, then formed a group in the lobby.
Getting from Hvar to Korcula required a boat ride. We left the hotel and headed to a boat just steps away. We were told it would take about an hour via speed boat. The sky was blue, the water was glassy, and the ride was so relaxing one of us (my sleepy teenager!) fell asleep.
Upon arriving at Vela Luka we regrouped at a coffee shop just steps from the boat landing. As we sipped on our coffees (or juice for the kids), our guides reviewed the route and the day ahead of us. The ride was about 30 miles with a few planned stops along the way. Daniel warned us that there would be some steep hills.
Once again, our bikes were neatly lined up along the water, labeled with our names. We located our bikes, secured our helmets, and saddled up. The bike ride was pleasant. It was sunny, but a bit cooler than our first day of riding.
The ride included a lot of scenic stretches through farm fields, as well as some small towns. And, yes, there were hills, too, one with a stunning seaside view that was quite strenuous.
It wasn’t long after we started our ride that we took a short break to hydrate and use the restroom. We pulled our bikes alongside a small cafe and ordered another round of refreshments. On all of these stops the Austin Adventures team paid for our beverages. We didn’t need to have any money with us during our daily adventures, which was one less thing to think about when traveling as a family.
The next leg of our trip took us to lunch. Most of the ride was easy, but as we approached the restaurant my son decided he didn’t want to ride his bike anymore. He got off of his bike and refused to move. Our guide Marko stopped to talk to him. When Marko realized his pep talk wasn’t working he offered Griffin two choices: finish the bike ride or get in the van. Griffin didn’t like either option, and asked if he could walk instead. Marko said “no” and repeated the available choices. Ultimately Griffin got back on the bike and we headed to the restaurant. By then we were at least 20 minutes behind the rest of the group. Everyone was already seated, and we arrived just as lunch was served.
We were the only party seated in the large covered patio at Konopica. The restaurant is open by reservation only, and it’s surrounded by farm fields and olive trees. Our meal consisted of a charcuterie plate, a rice dish, dessert, and wine. A bottle of wine was typically on the table at each meal.
The next portion of our ride had a large hill. After my son’s troubles before lunch, he and I decided we’d sit in the van for that stretch. It was a good choice. The road was long and steep. One after another, each cyclist arrived at the top of the hill at their own pace. We waited in a pullout with a gorgeous view of the sparkling blue water below.
After a water break, the cyclists got back on their bikes and continued on. We were scheduled to meet them a little ways ahead, in Pupnat (hilariously pronounced “poop nut”).
By this time, Griffin was ready to get back on his bike. However, the last stretch of the ride to the hotel involved being on a highway. Marko gave stern instructions to the younger kids to keep to the right for safety. The highway was one lane in each direction. To this point, we hadn’t encountered too many cars on the road. This stretch was a little stressful due to the narrow lanes and traffic in both directions. We stayed together as a group as we approached the town of Korcula.
Suddenly we were headed downhill into Korcula, and the views of the town and sea were so pretty. Our end point was Hotel Liburna.
When we walked into the hotel lobby, Darija presented us with our room key. We had a couple hours to relax before meeting for dinner.
Once again, our family was divided into two rooms. Each room had a couch and half bathroom downstairs, with a bedroom and full bathroom upstairs, as well as a private balcony.
For dinner, we walked through Korcula to Aterina restaurant. This was our first look at this historic coastal town, said to be the birthplace of explorer Marco Polo. While that’s been disputed, this history of the town of Korcula is undeniable. Aterina has a large outdoor dining area with views of the channel. During the course of our meal, we watched the sky change colors as the sun began to set.
The menu here was local, but delightfully different than some of our previous stops. I ordered “Aubergine Rolls” – or eggplant filled with goat cheese, tomato salsa, Parmesan, and basil. It was served in a casserole dish, and rather blah looking. I scoffed at the large portion, but then found myself devouring the entire dish. I’ve thought about that meal ever since. It was one of the most memorable dishes I had on the trip.
After dinner, we departed the restaurant on our own. Korcula was lively, even on a Tuesday night. We meandered through the town, stopping in shops and stands, and ordering gelato (even though we’d already had dessert at the restaurant).
The activities planned for the next day were light so we didn’t feel the need to turn in too early. We enjoyed the energy of being in Korcula and made our way back to Hotel Liburna in our own time.
Day 4 brought a different type of activity. No bikes or boats on this day. Click 4 to see what we did.
