Gorilla trekking in the wild is an unsurpassed animal encounter. But trust me when I say, the privilege must be earned. I am a middle-aged woman of average fitness, and I’d describe this hike as one of my most challenging — but I did it and have no regrets.
So where exactly do mountain gorillas live? They can be found in just three countries in the world — Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Rwanda and Uganda. Because of the civil unrest in the DRC, I would only consider the latter two. In Uganda, more than 400 gorillas inhabit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park; more than 100 gorillas live in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. The country is home to about half the world’s mountain gorilla population. In Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park has about 320 mountain gorillas.
It’s important to prepare both mentally and physically for this adventure. Below, I’ve described what my family and I experienced in Bwindi as part of a G Adventures tour. Generally speaking, the same is true for a trek in Rwanda.
KidTripster Tip: Because of the physicality of this trip and the need to follow instructions precisely, the minimum age for gorilla trekking is 15 years old.
1. Obtaining a permit
To limit trekkers and safeguard the gorillas, you must obtain a permit to visit. In Rwanda, you can obtain your own permit or book with a tour operator; the cost is $1,500 per person.
In Uganda, foreigners pay $800 per person, but you must book with a tour operator. Frankly, I think booking a full tour that includes your activities (e.g., gorilla trekking, chimpanzee trekking, safari drives) plus accommodations, meals, transportation, and guides is the way to go as navigating the logistics in Africa can often be challenging.
Whether you visit in Rwanda or Uganda, your total time with the gorillas is one hour.
2. Getting briefed about gorilla trekking
In Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park on the day before your trek, your tour operator is notified which of the four park sectors your group has been assigned. You don’t know this information beforehand, so it’s possible that your lodging could be quite a distance from your starting point.
In our case, we stayed at the lovely Gorilla Hills Eco-Lodge, but we were assigned to the Nkuringo Sector about an hour’s drive away, which meant a pre-dawn walk-up call.
Once you arrive at the sector station, you attend your first briefing where a ranger discusses the rules. For example, if the Silverback in your troop decides to charge, you should stand your ground but in a submissive posture and await further instructions from your guide. Not to worry, it’s not a regular occurrence!
While you’re getting briefed, your tour operator is briefing the rangers on your group. If there are special circumstances — like your group has older hikers — your tour operator can request an easier hike; however, it’s important to know that there are no guarantees. You could be assigned the nearest gorilla family at that time, but the gorillas are on the move. By the end of the day, that family could be farthest away.
3. Being assigned your gorilla family
No more than eight trekkers are assigned to any given gorilla family. There are 19 habituated families in Bwindi, meaning these gorilla troops are visited daily for one hour by tourists. There also are two or three trackers that keep tabs on each family during the day until they build their nests for the night.
We were assigned to the Posho Group. Each of the 16 family members are known and named.
In addition to your park ranger/guide, your group is accompanied by two armed guards. The guards are there to protect you and the animals. If by chance you run into a herd of forest elephants, your guards will fire a warning shot.
KidTripster Tip: At this particular ranger station, they offered walking sticks for us to borrow. Check in advance with your tour operator, so that you don’t needlessly bring your own. You’ll definitely want a walking stick or hiking poles.
[ Related: Why to Consider Uganda or Rwanda for your African Adventure ]
4. Hiring a porter
Once you get your family assignment, you typically drive a short distance to the hike’s starting point. It’s here where you can hire a local porter.
I cannot emphasize this point strongly enough — hire a porter no matter what your hiking ability is. The cost is $20 per day plus tip; it’s the best money you’ll ever spend! The porters live in the local villages. They only get an opportunity to work as a porter once or twice a month. They’ll carry your backpack with your two liters of water, packed lunch, snacks, camera gear, and whatever else you may need. They also provide a hand when you need assistance along the steep trail. And yes, in all likelihood, you’ll need a hand.
KidTripster Tip: Come prepared to tip your porter generously in Ugandan shillings. If you pay your porter double or even triple the day rate, it will still feel like a bargain for what you get in return. The equivalent of $60USD buys a goat for your porter’s family.
5. Finding your assigned gorilla family
Your gorilla family could be anywhere! The gorillas could be an hour away or several hours away — there’s no way of knowing in advance, so you need to be prepared for a serious hike.
Trackers are sent out in the morning to start at your gorilla family’s last known location. They then track the gorillas, following signs of broken branches or fresh dung. At the same time, you and your companions are hiking through steep hillsides of tea plantations to the edge of the Impenetrable Forest. Once the gorillas are found, the trackers radio your guide the exact location.
6. Cutting your own path
There’s a reason this area is named the Impenetrable Forest. It’s steep, dense and without trails. While your guide will attempt to cut a path using his machete, you’re really bushwhacking your way through the vegetation.
KidTripster Tip: Bring garden gloves to wear. While it’s hot and your hands will get sweaty, the gloves will protect you from the thorny plants. The gloves also make it easier to grab your porter’s hand.
7. Meeting the Silverback
Then the moment arrives. Your guide cautions you to be silent, and you slowly approach your gorilla family.
We first saw the Posho Group’s alpha male, a Silverback named Magara, weighing about 400 pounds. He was amazingly unfazed by our arrival, until someone in our group accidentally tripped and lunged forward. Magara quickly got up and loudly vocalized. However, the guide stopped our natural inclination to retreat and returned Magara’s call with a few grunts of his own. Within a few seconds, the Silverback settled back down.
8. Looking for the youngsters
Most gorilla families have a few babies or toddlers. The Posho Group had four. They act just like human toddlers, roughhousing with each other. They’re pretty darn adorable!
9. Photographing your gorilla family
You do get shockingly close to the gorillas — sometimes, just 10 feet away — so it’s possible to get photos and videos with a simple cell phone. However, if you do have a camera with a mid-range lens, you may want to bring it, especially if you’re hiring a porter to carry your gear. After all, when will you get the opportunity to photograph gorillas in the wild again?
[ Related: What to Know About Taking a Safari With Kids ]
10. Appreciating the gorilla trekking experience
In all, we hiked three miles with an elevation change of 1,135 feet for a total of six hours. Our fellow G Adventures companions in another group hiked for about four hours with an elevation change of around 900 feet.
For all, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that will not be forgotten!
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