San Juan Island is the Perfect PNW Road Trip

by KyAnn Lewis
Friday Harbor at sunset

San Juan Island in September is Simply Gorgeous

We fell hard for San Juan Island when we visited this September. It’s not surprising really. Fall’s a beautiful season to visit thanks to gorgeous weather and smaller crowds. It’s a quiet and peaceful time of year. The sounds of the surf were interrupted only by the squawking of birds, or the occasional sea plane flying overhead.

Where Are the San Juan Islands

The San Juan Islands are part of Washington state – located in the Salish Sea between Seattle and Vancouver, BC. Although there are nearly 200 islands in the San Juans, the three main islands – Lopez, Orcas, and San Juan – have lodgings, attractions, and restaurants for visitors. 

Each island is unique, but for our first visit to this area, we chose San Juan Island. It’s the most populated island with 7,500 residents on its 55 square miles. Although relatively small in size, the island feels larger due to its wide open spaces.

 Located about 90 minutes northwest of Seattle, San Juan Island is accessible only by ferry or plane. It’s a great road trip if you live in the Pacific Northwest. My 10-year-old son and I drove up from Portland, Oregon to spend an extended weekend exploring the area. 

When To Visit San Juan Island

No matter the season, there’s something to do. Summer is the high season on the island. It’s more crowded and more expensive. Consider planning a shoulder-season visit in the fall or spring.

Even during the slower seasons, there’s still plenty to keep you busy on the island. We had three full days to explore and didn’t get to everything. Our fall trip coincided with a popular annual island event: Savor the San Juans Farm Tours. Farms across the island open their doors to visitors for tours, many hosting special events.

Savor the San Juans Farm Tours

The farm tours typically take place one weekend in the fall. During our visit several farms were open to the public. We checked out as many as we could including:

Amaro Farm (44 Amaro Farm Road) is home to the “world’s cutest sheep” otherwise known as Valais Blacknose sheep. Visitors to the 150-acre farm can take sheep tours, or purchase sheep food from the shop to feed the animals through the fence. Lots of sheep products are available for purchase. And yes, the sheep here are pretty cute!

Aurora Farms (652 No 2 Schoolhouse Road) offered self-guided tours, with the opportunity to meet farm animals (like Boer goats and Berkshire pigs), explore greenhouses, and more. There was a cider pressing demonstration and delicious BBQ rib plates. 

KidTripster Tip: Want an immersive experience? Aurora Farms offers farm stays. Guests can spend the night in the farmhouse or in a glamping yurt. 

The Farm at Krystal Acres (3501 West Valley Road) is a fun stop for alpaca lovers. Visitors can stroll along the fence, interacting with the animals they meet along the way. These critters sure are real characters.

  • Amaro Farm on San Juan Island, home to valais sheep
  • Boy peeking head out of sunroof of Subaru at Peblinda Farm on San Juan Island
  • The shop at Peblinda Farm on San Juan Island sells a large variety of lavender items
  • A lavender field at Peblinda Farm on San Juan Island
  • Alpaca at Krystal Acres farm on San Juan Island
  • Alpaca at Krystal Acres farm on San Juan Island
  • Old truck at Aurora Farms on San Juan Island
  • Fam tour on San Juan island
  • Distillery on San Juan Island
  • Bottles for sale at distillery on San Juan Island

Pelindaba Lavender Farm (45 Hawthorne Lane) is a gorgeous expanse of lavender fields. During the farm tour weekend, a guide explained the harvest cycle, the different uses of lavender, and demonstrated how it’s distilled. The farm shop had a huge variety of items made from lavender. (There’s also a shop in downtown Friday Harbor)

San Juan Island Distillery (12 Anderson Lane) offered tastings of its gin. It makes 14 different gins, as well as several liqueurs and brandies. Everything is made in small batches, allowing for interesting experimentation. 

During our visit, most of these farms were open Friday-Sunday, but days and hours did vary.  Some of these farms are open to the public at other times of the year as well. 

[ Related: A Weekend in Seattle ]

What to Do on San Juan Island

There’s so much more to see and do on San Juan Island. Here are some other things we did during our weekend getaway.

San Juan Island Farmers Market

If your visit doesn’t align with the farm tours, the San Juan Island Farmers Market (150 Nichols Street) is a good place to sample the best of the island. In addition to fresh produce and flowers, you’ll find crafts, prepared foods, wine, and more. The market’s located in the historic Brickworks building, just a few blocks from the ferry landing in Friday Harbor. It’s open every Saturday between April and October and select Saturdays from November through March. 

Friday Harbor Museums

Friday Harbor is home to a few small museums. The Whale Museum (62 First Street North) uses its 2-stories to educate visitors about the Salish Sea ecosystem. The museum highlights the orca pods that live in the waters around the San Juan Islands. Some of the exhibits include real whale bones. The museum is located downtown and is open daily. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for kids age 6-17, and free for kids under 5.

San Juan Islands Museum of Art (540 Spring Street) houses a unique and evolving collection of art, with an emphasis on showcasing works of artists from around the San Juan Islands. The museum operates on a seasonal schedule. Check the website for days and hours. Admission is $10 for non-members.

KidTripster Tip: As you roam around Friday Harbor, pay attention to the many works of public art scattered about. You’ll see a few dozen sculptures, murals, carvings and monuments, most by current or former San Juan Island artists. 

The San Juan Historical Society and Museum (323 & 405 Price Street) is an open-air museum, spread across several historic buildings. The museum is open a few days a week for self-guided tours. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for ages 6-17, and free for those under 5.

Friday Harbor Shopping

Friday Harbor’s very walkable. In addition to museums, there are lots of restaurants and cute shops. 

Some of our favorite shops included San Juan Island Sea Salt (locally harvested sea salt in all kinds of flavors), Pelindaba Lavender (items made of or from lavender),and Printshop Northwest (cozy clothing with uniquely northwest screenprints). My family always shops at a local bookstore (Griffin Bay Bookstore) and toy store (The Toy Box) during our travels.

Historic Roche Harbor

Roche Harbor is on the National Register of Historic Places. It was built up in 1845 as a log trading post, then it turned into a hub for the lime industry in 1881. We really enjoyed this part of the island. You definitely feel like you’ve stepped back in time here. You can take a walking tour that includes Hotel de Haro. Built in 1887, President Theodore Roosevelt once stayed in Room 2A. Check out the two stone lime kilns near the hotel. Take a walking trail through the lime quarries and a mausoleum. 

Roche Harbor on San Juan Island

KidTripster Tip: If visiting Roche Harbor around sunset, you may experience the Colors Ceremony. The tradition of lowering the flags at sunset started in 1957. The flags include Roche Harbor, Washington state, Great Britain, Canada and the United States. Songs play during the lowering, and a cannon shot is fired just before the American flag comes down. The ceremony starts 10 minutes before sunset, each night between May and September.

Sculpture Park

Roche Harbor has a cool, 20-acre outdoor sculpture park. More than 150 sculptures large and small fill San Juan Islands Sculpture Park. Some stand out, others blend into the landscape. The park’s open every day of the year from dawn until dusk. It’s free to enter. Kids and dogs are welcome.

Beaches

There are public beaches around the island. Many have public parking, walking trails, picnic areas, and restrooms. With driftwood strewn about the beach, the beaches were rugged and wild. As expected in the Pacific Northwest, the water is cold.

Parks

There are several points of interest on the island, including some state and national historic parks.

Cattle Point Lighthouse is part of the San Juan Islands National Monument. The lighthouse began operating in 1935 (replacing the original navigational lantern). It’s one of the most photographed lighthouses in Washington state. Visitors can walk down the beach below the lighthouse and see tidepools. We even spotted a fox as we pulled into the parking lot. 

Lime Kiln Point State Park (1567 Westside Road) is a popular spot for wildlife watching, in fact it’s considered one of the best whale watching spots in the world. You might see orcas, humpback, minke, and gray whales, as well as porpoises and sea lions. Prime whale watching is May through September. Don’t miss the 1919 vintage lighthouse and be sure to check out the 19th century lime kiln that the park was named after. The park’s open daily. Admission is free, but there’s a $10 parking fee.

San Juan Island National Historic Park (American 4668 Cattle Point Road and English Camp 3905 West Valley Road) highlights an important part of the history on San Juan Island, “The Pig War.” Between 1859-1872 there was a peaceful standoff between the British and American troops over the ownership of the island. The park is spread over two units – the American Camp and English Camp. The two camps have historical buildings and re-enactments of this period of time. There’s a Junior Ranger program here. This is a fee-free site.

Where to Eat on San Juan Island

You won’t find any fast food restaurants on the island. Instead it’s fresh seafood and farm-to-table dining. Not to worry, though, if traveling with little ones. Most restaurants are casual and kid-friendly.

In Friday Harbor, we dined at:

Cynthia’s Bistro (65 Nichols Street) sits inside a cute 1920s home. It’s a great spot for breakfast or lunch serving sweet and savory items which includes breakfast bowls, lunch bowls, and burgers. Dinner’s available on Friday and Saturday evenings. 

Downriggers (10 Front Street N) is located right on the water in Friday Harbor. It has lots of outdoor seating and it’s a lovely place to dine at sunset. The views aren’t the only draw here – the Pacific Northwest cuisine and cocktails were spectacular, too. Downriggers is open for lunch and dinner. It’s popular, so consider making advance reservations. 

San Juan Island Brewing Company (410 A Street) is a local, independent brewery specializing in craft ales and lagers. The restaurant is open to all-ages and was a kid friendly spot to grab dinner. The outdoor patio was especially popular with families. While parents dined, kids played in the grass. Menu items included pretzels, pizza, and sandwiches. There’s a reasonably priced kids menu with lots to choose from.

Vinny’s Ristorante (165 West Street) is an Italian restaurant. The menu includes fresh seafood, steak, and classic pasta dishes and desserts, made with local ingredients. 

In Roche Harbor, we dined at:

Lime Kiln Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch. It’s famous for its doughnuts, made fresh in-house each morning. It’s a casual dining experience, and great for families. 

Madrona Bar & Grill sits on the water next to the hotel and is open seasonally. The menu includes seafood options as well as burgers and colorful craft cocktails. 

Where to Stay on San Juan Island

Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast, established in 1989, is a serene place to stay on San Juan Island. It’s just a short drive from the ferry terminal and downtown Friday Harbor. 

For a family, you may need to reserve two rooms as most rooms sleep two guests. Although one room does accommodate three people. 

There are a couple of shared living spaces where you can gather as a family and watch a movie or play board games. There’s a cabinet full of fun all-ages games. 

  • Exterior of Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island, Washington
  • Guest room at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Guest bathroom at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Guest room at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Shared living space at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Game cabinet at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Boy playing with games at Trumpeter Inn
  • Communal kitchen at Trumpeter Inn on San Juan Island
  • Egg muffins
  • Granola in Trumpeter Inn
  • Apple cake at Trumpeter Inn
  • Boy feeding goats at Trumpeter Inn
  • People feeding goats at Trumpeter Inn

A gourmet breakfast and fresh coffee is served daily, and it’s delicious. The sweet hosts, Claudia and Tyrone, will happily provide recommendations or directions. If you need a bite or a beverage later in the day, the hosts leave fresh baked goodies and complimentary drinks in the communal kitchen.

After breakfast each morning, we went outside to feed the resident goats who live at the Trumpeter Inn. You can grab a bag of goat snacks from the kitchen and hand-feed the friendly crew of animals. 

Chairs are scattered around the property for sitting and relaxing, and enjoying the evening sunset.

KidTripster Tip: Need help with vacation planning? Or locating a place to stay? Reach out to the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau. You’ll find ideas and vacation planning resources on the website.

[ Related: Stay in the Heart of Seattle at the Four Seasons Hotel ]

Getting to San Juan Island

San Juan Island is accessible by Washington State Ferry. Car ferries run year-round from Anacortes to Friday Harbor. It’s about a 90-minute ride each way. 

Make an advance reservation. Reservations are free, but require a credit card number in case of a no-show. Reservations are released in increments. If a sailing date looks full, check again later. 30% of tickets are released two weeks before sailing, and the final 30% two days before. Reservations are released at 7am PT. Same day tickets are sometimes available.

KidTripster Tip: If you don’t want to drive to San Juan Island, passenger-only boats depart from Seattle during summer months. The port is conveniently located in downtown Friday Harbor. During summer months, there’s an island shuttle, as well as car and bike rentals, or taxi service. 

When spending time in the San Juan Islands, visitors are asked to be good stewards. The islands have a complex and fragile ecosystem. As you travel the islands, consider this pledge: when you act as a responsible visitor you are actively contributing to the future of the San Juans. By being a responsible visitor, you can help ensure that the San Juans remains beautiful and sustainable for generations to come.

[ Related: Vancouver, BC The Sparkliest City for the Holidays ]

The author was hosted by San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau and the Trumpeter Inn for purposes of this article. All opinions are her own.

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