Our 800+ Mile, 8 Day Route from North to South
Nothing is quite as appealing … or terrifying … as the open road during a global pandemic. My family loves to travel, so staying put was a challenge for us. Like many Americans, we pivoted and hit the road instead of taking to the skies for our recent adventures.
As a (nearly) lifelong Oregonian, I’ve spent a lot of time on the Oregon coast. My memories of childhood involve digging sand trenches, racing my cousins on the beach, burrowing for razor clams with my grandparents and finding inventive ways to stay warm on the coldest of summer days. In case you’re not aware, the Oregon Coast can be quite chilly, even in the summer months.
One thing I hadn’t done was drive the entire coastline. With summer 2020 wide open, it seemed like the perfect time to make the trip. The Oregon coastline stretches 363 miles. Without stops, it’s at least an eight hour drive. With little else going on, we decided to take our time. We took eight days to make the trip.
You could shave a few days off the drive by making fewer stops and you could certainly stretch it out, too. Here’s how we spent our week on the Oregon Coast.
Day One: Astoria
We left Portland with a packed minivan. Beyond too many changes of clothing, we had swimsuits, sand toys, beach chairs, beach blankets, you name it, we were ready for a coastal adventure. The drive on Day 1 took us from Portland to Astoria, approximately 100 miles, or just under two hours. Astoria’s located along the Columbia River, where it meets the Pacific Ocean.
Astoria’s one of my favorite spots on the Oregon Coast. It feels entirely different than any other coastal town in the state. It’s industrial and a bit gritty, but also historic and hip. The downtown is dotted with shops, brew pubs and tasty restaurants. Astoria’s the oldest settlement West of the Rockies. The Lewis & Clark expedition spent the winter of 1805-1806 in nearby Fort Clatsop. Many of the homes in Astoria were built during the Victorian era. Growing up, The Goonies was one of my favorite movies. Filmed in 1984, it featured landmarks around Astoria, including an old Victorian that was Mikey’s house. Astoria’s also been the setting for other popular movies like Kindergarten Cop starring Arnold Schwarzenegger.
What to Do
So what’s there to do in Astoria? Quite a lot, actually! We arrived in the afternoon and spent the day visiting some of our favorite spots. As we entered town, we pulled over to get a view of the house from The Goonies. My daughter had recently become a fan of the movie and wanted to snap a selfie. The house sits in a quiet residential area so if you visit, be respectful of the people who live here. You can get quite close to the famous house, but are asked to stay off the property. We got close enough for a photo and then went on our way. If you’re a die-hard Goonies fan, check out this map listing other spots from the movie.
Then we headed over to another family favorite, and must stop for anyone visiting Astoria, the Astoria Column (1 Coxcomb Drive). Built in 1926, the 125-foot tall column is covered in a mural depicting the area’s history. Visitors can climb 164 steps to the top. You’ll be out of breath, but the 360-degree views of the Pacific Ocean, the Columbia River and Youngs Bay will be well worth it. The gift shop sells balsa wood airplanes that kids can toss from the top of the column. If heights aren’t your thing, the views from the ground are stunning, too. This is great place to get your bearings and appreciate the beauty of the area. Parking costs $5. If you plan to return, save your ticket because it’s good for the calendar year. The column is open daily except for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
When we finished at the column, we wound our way back down the hill to the Columbia River Maritime Museum (1792 Marine Drive). The museum brings to life the storied history of the Columbia River from the early days of dugout canoes, through the age of sail to today’s commercial traffic. The passage is particularly perilous where the the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean meet. This area is known as the graveyard of the Pacific. Hundreds of vessels have wrecked here, resulting in many lives lost. Museum visitors will learn why this area is so dangerous and the storm systems that affect the lives and livelihoods of mariners. Outside the museum, visitors can go inside the Lightship Columbia, a national historic landmark. The Lightship Columbia functioned as a floating lighthouse, helping guide sailors to safety. Today, visitors have the opportunity to see where the sailors worked, cooked and slept during their 2-4 week rotations aboard. The museum is open daily, except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Admission is $16 for adults, $13 for seniors, $5 for kids 6-17 and free for kids 5 and under.
From there, we headed over to another local museum, one my family always enjoys visiting, the Oregon Film Museum (732 Duane Street). This is one of the more popular museums in Astoria. The museum is set in a building that’s both historic and famous. It’s housed in the old Clatsop County Jail which was a working jail from 1914 to 1976. It was also a working set for three movies: The Goonies, Short Circuit, and Come See The Paradise. This museum is small (with a fun gift shop), but a neat stop for any movie nerds. You can even snap a mug shot here and make your own movie. The museum is open daily. Admission is $6 for adults and $2 for kids.
Astoria’s home to a surprising number of museums. All relatively small, but interesting. There’s also The Heritage Museum (1618 Exchange Street) which tells the stories of regional Native American tribes, as well as the early immigrants and settlers; and it details the impact the fishing industry had on the town’s early days. Hours and days vary. Admission costs $5 for adults and $2 for kids.
To get an idea of how one of Astoria’s famous families lived, step into the Flavel House Museum (714 Exchange Street). Built in 1885, Queen Anne-style mansion served as home to Captain George Flavel and his family. The beautifully preserved house is more than 11,000 square feet and includes a 4-story tower where the Captain kept an eye on the ship traffic. Most rooms are open to the public for exploration as is the Carriage House, located outside on the expansive grounds that cover an entire city block. Hours and days vary. Admission costs $7 for adults and $2 for kids.
Ok, that’s enough about museums. Just know that any of these museums is worth a stop. You won’t spend too long at any one of them and the price of admission is pretty affordable. The weather in Astoria can be cold and wet. If you end up visiting on a dreary day, any of these museums would be a good way to duck out of the rain for a bit.
One of the best deals in Astoria is the Astoria Riverfront Trolley. For just a buck you can get a roundtrip ticket for a hour-long scenic ride along the historic waterfront. The “Old 300” trolley typically operates daily between Memorial Day and Labor Day. The schedule during other months varies. Check the trolley shelters for posted times. There are several locations where you can climb aboard. Visit the website for the operational schedule.
Where to Eat
You’ll find a variety of eateries in Astoria, including several family friendly brew pubs. Let’s start with Buoy Beer Co (No. 1 8th Street) which sits in a century old canning building. One of our favorite features is the glass floor where kids can look into the water below to spot sea lions. The menu includes items like chowder, fish & chips and burgers. The beer is brewed on-site. The brewery is expanding its footprint, by building a larger facility adjacent the current one and incorporating a craft distillery. The other big brewer in town is Ft. George (1483 Duane Street). It serves wood fired pizzas, salads and small plates. The Rogue Pier 39 Public House (100 39th Street) sits inside the old Bumblebee Tuna Factory on the pier. Menu items include seafood, burgers and pizza. All three of these brew pubs have indoor and outdoor seating and allow children. Some also allow dogs. If you’re in the mood for traditional seafood, try Mo’s Seafood & Chowder (101 15th Street), an Oregon coast mainstay since 1946. The prices are reasonable, the portions are big and the chowder is famous. This location has indoor and outdoor dining. You can also take food to-go and sit on one of the benches along the waterfront where you might see, hear or smell some of the local sea lions. For a treat, stop by the Custard King (1597 Commercial Street). The walk-up stand serves custards and shakes – and food items like burgers, fish and chips, and tacos. This location has outdoor seating only. We recommend the custard, dipped or with toppings! We’ve heard that the food is good here, but we just come for the custard.
Where to Stay
You won’t find beachfront hotel choices here although most do have river views. Astoria does have a few boutique hotels, but we opted for something more basic. We crashed at the Comfort Suites Columbia River (3420 Leif Erickson Drive). The rooms are affordable and clean, plus there’s an indoor pool and a free breakfast. The hotel sits along the Astoria Riverwalk, a 6 mile trail along the river. From the hotel, it’s a short walk to Rogue Brewery on Pier 39.
KidTripster Tip: Stop by the Astoria-Warrenton Chamber of Commerce visitor center (111 West Marine Drive/Hwy 30). You’ll find lots of information about Astoria and the other cities up and down the Oregon Coast. The visitor center also sells fun Goonies merchandise.
Day 2 takes us south to an old shipwreck, an abandoned military installation and one of the most iconic landmarks on the Oregon coast. Click below to keep reading.
